An Introduction to Coastal Engineering
by Michael Isaacson
1st Edition
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons P&T
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Book Details
| Print ISBN | 9781394257140 |
| eText ISBN | 9781394257157 |
| Publisher | John Wiley & Sons P&T |
| Publishing Year | 2025 |
| Edition | 1st Edition |
| Language | English |
| Pages | 336 |
An Introduction to Coastal Engineering, 1st Edition, is a textbook designed to fill gaps found across general civil engineering literature by providing a systematic overview of coastal engineering fundamentals. Intended for upper-level undergraduate and graduate students, the volume outlines essential analytical concepts for studying coastal processes and hydraulic phenomena.
The book structures its theoretical coverage around wave dynamics and coastal design principles. It presents detailed explanations of ocean wave behavior, wave theories, wave transformations, and random waves with their associated wave spectra. These theoretical foundation topics connect directly to practical application areas, such as the design of coastal structures, breakwaters, seawalls, and waterfront development projects.
To reinforce technical instruction, the publication features worked-through problem examples, end-of-chapter exercise problems, and structured written assignments. This balanced pedagogical framework assists upper-level engineering courses in building core competencies across coastal engineering applications.
Table of Contents
Chapter 1: Introduction
- • 1.1 Scope of Coastal Engineering
- • 1.2 Outline of Book
- • 1.3 Example Projects
- • 1.3.1 Coastal Flooding
- • 1.3.2 Coastal Structure Design
- • 1.3.3 Sediment Transport
- • 1.3.4 Marina Design
- • 1.4 Evolution of Coastal Engineering and Future Trends
Chapter 2: Regular Waves
- • 2.1 Introduction
- • 2.2 Boundary Value Problem
- • 2.2.1 Assumptions
- • 2.2.2 Equations of Motion
- • 2.2.3 Boundary Conditions
- • 2.2.4 Governing Equations
- • 2.3 Linear Wave Theory
- • 2.3.1 Governing Equations
- • 2.3.2 Solution for Flow Field
- • 2.3.3 Depth Parameter
- • 2.3.4 Description of Results
- • 2.3.5 Linear Dispersion Relation
- • 2.4 Wave Energy and Momentum
- • 2.5 Waves with a Current
- • 2.5.1 Fixed and Moving Reference Frames
- • 2.5.2 Solution for Flow Field
- • 2.5.3 Dispersion Relation
- • 2.6 Extensions to Linear Wave Theory
- • 2.6.1 Waves Propagating at An Angle to the X Axis
- • 2.6.2 Reference Frame Moving with the Waves
- • 2.6.3 Stream Function Representation
- • 2.6.4 Complex Representation
- • 2.7 Nonlinear Wave Theories
- • 2.7.1 Stokes Wave Theories
- • 2.7.2 Cnoidal Wave Theories
- • 2.7.3 Solitary Wave Theories
- • 2.7.4 Numerical Wave Theories
- • Problems
Chapter 3: Wave Transformations
- • 3.1 Wave Shoaling
- • 3.1.1 Assumptions
- • 3.1.2 Shoaling Relations
- • 3.2 Wave Refraction
- • 3.2.1 Refraction Relations
- • 3.2.2 Numerical Modeling of Shoaling and Refraction
- • 3.3 Wave Diffraction
- • 3.3.1 Boundary Value Problem
- • 3.3.2 Example Solutions
- • 3.3.3 Straight Semi-Infinite Breakwater – Closed-Form Solution
- • 3.3.4 Straight Semi-Infinite Breakwater – Diffraction Diagrams
- • 3.3.5 Guidelines and Approximations on the Use of Diffraction Diagrams
- • 3.4 Standing Waves
- • 3.4.1 Standing Waves at a Wall
- • 3.4.2 Standing Waves in a Basin
- • 3.5 Wave Reflection
- • 3.5.1 Normal Reflection
- • 3.5.2 Oblique Reflection
- • 3.6 Wave Transmission
- • 3.7 Wave Attenuation
- • 3.7.1 Forms of Energy Dissipation
- • 3.7.2 Friction Factor
- • 3.7.3 Attenuation Rate
- • 3.8 Waves of Maximum Height
- • 3.9 Breaking Waves
- • 3.9.1 Forms of Wave Breaking
- • 3.9.2 Breaking Wave Height and Depth
- • 3.10 Wave Runup
- • 3.11 Numerical Models
- • 3.11.1 Overview
- • 3.11.2 Models Based on the Mild-Slope Equation
- • 3.11.3 Models Based on Boussinesq-Type Equations
- • Problems
Chapter 4: Random Waves
- • 4.1 Introduction
- • 4.2 Probability Distribution of Wave Heights
- • 4.3 Wave Spectra
- • 4.3.1 One-Dimensional Spectra
- • 4.3.2 Transformation of Wave Spectra
- • 4.3.3 Directional Wave Spectra
- • 4.3.4 Time–Frequency Domain Conversions
- • 4.4 Long-Term Variability of Storms
- • 4.5 Extreme Value Analysis
- • 4.5.1 Overview
- • 4.5.2 Exceedance Probabilities
- • 4.5.3 Distribution Selection and Fit
- • 4.5.4 Return Period and Annual Exceedance Probability
- • 4.5.5 Encounter Probability
- • 4.6 EVA Alternatives and Extensions
- • 4.6.1 Annual Maxima
- • 4.6.2 Lower Return Periods
- • 4.6.3 Seasonal Conditions
- • 4.6.4 Confidence Bands
- • 4.7 Annual Wave Conditions
- • 4.7.1 Wave Scatter Diagram
- • 4.7.2 Long-Term Distribution of Individual Wave Heights
- • 4.7.3 Application to Hours Per Year
- • 4.7.4 Application to Fatigue Calculations
- • Problems
Chapter 5: Winds
- • 5.1 Introduction
- • 5.2 Wind Data
- • 5.3 Annual Wind Conditions
- • 5.4 Design Wind Speeds
- • 5.5 Wind Speed Correction Factors
- • 5.5.1 Averaging Period
- • 5.5.2 Elevation
- • 5.5.3 Overland to Overwater Conversion
- • 5.5.4 Atmospheric Stability
- • 5.6 Hurricanes
- • 5.6.1 Tropical Cyclone Categories
- • 5.6.2 Saffir–Simpson Scale
- • 5.6.3 Wind and Pressure Fields
- • 5.6.4 Hurricane Tracks
- • Problems
Chapter 6: Wave Predictions
- • 6.1 Introduction
- • 6.1.1 General Approaches
- • 6.1.2 Wave Generation by Wind
- • 6.2 Wave Hindcasting – Simplified Approach
- • 6.3 Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting – Numerical Models
- • 6.3.1 Spectral Wave Models
- • 6.3.2 Extension to Intermediate and Shallow Depths
- • 6.3.3 Regional and Global Models
- • 6.3.4 Operational Forecasting
- • 6.4 Ship Waves
- • 6.5 Laboratory-Generated Waves
- • 6.5.1 Overview
- • 6.5.2 Wavemaker Theory
- • Problems
Chapter 7: Long Waves, Water Levels, and Currents
- • 7.1 Long Wave Theories
- • 7.1.1 Linearized Long Wave Theory
- • 7.1.2 Nonlinear Long Wave Theories
- • 7.2 Tides
- • 7.2.1 Introduction and Historical Development
- • 7.2.2 Glossary
- • 7.2.3 Prediction of Tide Levels
- • 7.2.4 Vertical Datums
- • 7.2.5 Tidal and Bathymetric Data
- • 7.2.6 Tidal Bores
- • 7.3 Tsunamis
- • 7.3.1 Introduction and Examples
- • 7.3.2 Tsunami Modeling
- • 7.3.3 Tsunami Runup Predictions
- • 7.3.4 Tsunami Warning Systems and Emergency Management
- • 7.3.5 Landslide-Generated Waves
- • 7.4 Long Wave Oscillations
- • 7.5 Storm Surge
- • 7.5.1 Regional and Local Storm Surge
- • 7.5.2 Wind Setup
- • 7.5.3 Pressure Setup
- • 7.5.4 Long-Term Fluctuations
- • 7.5.5 Features of Hurricane Storm Surge
- • 7.5.6 Storm Surge Modeling
- • 7.6 Wave Setup
- • 7.7 Sea Level Rise
- • 7.7.1 Sea Level Rise Components
- • 7.7.2 Sea Level Rise Measurements
- • 7.7.3 Land Uplift/Subsidence
- • 7.7.4 Relative Sea Level Rise Projections
- • 7.8 Climate Change Impacts
- • 7.8.1 Background
- • 7.8.2 Arctic Sea Ice Cover
- • 7.8.3 Hurricanes
- • 7.8.4 Storm Surge and Extreme Waves
- • 7.8.5 Implications for Coastal Engineering Practice
- • 7.9 Coastal Flood Levels
- • 7.9.1 Flood Construction Level
- • 7.9.1.1 Methodology
- • 7.9.1.2 Tide Level and Storm Surge
- • 7.9.1.3 Relative Sea Level Rise
- • 7.9.1.4 Wave Runup
- • 7.9.2 Base Flood and Design Flood Elevations
- • 7.9.3 Dike Crest Elevation
- • 7.9.4 Tsunami Flood Level
- • 7.9.5 Probability of Coastal Flooding
- • 7.9.6 Consequences of Coastal Flooding
- • 7.10 Coastal Currents
- • Problems
Chapter 8: Coastal Structures
- • 8.1 Introduction
- • 8.1.1 Categories of Structure
- • 8.2 Seawalls
- • 8.2.1 Linear Wave Theory
- • 8.2.2 Miche-Rundgren and Sainflou Methods
- • 8.2.3 FEMA Formulation for Plunging Breakers
- • 8.2.4 Goda Formulation
- • 8.2.5 Related Impermeable Structures
- • 8.3 Rubble-Mound Structures
- • 8.3.1 Predictions of Armor Stability
- • 8.3.1.1 Hudson Equation
- • 8.3.1.2 Van der Meer Equations
- • 8.3.1.3 Damage Progression
- • 8.3.2 Alternate Rubble-Mound Configurations
- • 8.3.3 Wave Runup and Overtopping
- • 8.3.3.1 Wave Runup
- • 8.3.3.2 Wave Overtopping
- • 8.4 Slender Structures
- • 8.4.1 Development of Morison Equation
- • 8.4.2 Morison Equation for a Sinusoidal Flow
- • 8.4.3 Application to Pipelines and Piles
- • 8.4.4 Drag and Inertia Coefficients
- • 8.4.5 Lift Force
- • 8.4.6 Extensions to the Morison Equation
- • 8.5 Large Structures
- • 8.5.1 Introduction
- • 8.5.2 Vertical Circular Cylinder
- • 8.5.3 Other Configurations
- • 8.6 Floating Structures
- • 8.6.1 Introduction
- • 8.6.2 Recap of a Single-Degree-of-Freedom System
- • 8.6.3 Added Mass
- • 8.6.4 Hydrodynamic Analysis
- • 8.6.5 Random Waves
- • 8.7 Wave Impact Forces
- • 8.8 Floating Breakwaters and Bridges
- • 8.8.1 Transmission Coefficient
- • 8.8.2 Hydrodynamic Analysis
- • 8.8.3 Mooring System Analysis
- • 8.8.3.1 Static Mooring Analysis
- • 8.8.3.2 Dynamic Mooring Analysis
- • 8.9 Other Loads
- • 8.9.1 Foundation Loads and Stability
- • 8.9.2 Earthquake Loads
- • 8.9.3 Vessel Impact, Ice Impact, and Debris Loads
- • 8.9.4 Wind Loads
- • 8.10 Renewable Energy Infrastructure
- • 8.10.1 Background and Criteria
- • 8.10.2 Wind Energy
- • 8.10.3 Wave Energy
- • 8.10.4 Tidal Energy
- • 8.10.5 Current Turbines
- • 8.10.6 Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion
- • Problems
Chapter 9: Coastal Processes
- • 9.1 Introduction
- • 9.2 Coastal Forms
- • 9.3 Sediment Properties
- • 9.3.1 Sediment Size
- • 9.3.2 Cohesive Sediments
- • 9.3.3 Sediment Composition and Density
- • 9.3.4 Porosity and Bulk Density
- • 9.3.5 Fall Velocity
- • 9.4 Threshold of Sediment Motion
- • 9.4.1 Unidirectional Flow
- • 9.4.2 Waves
- • 9.5 Beach Characteristics
- • 9.6 Sediment Transport Processes
- • 9.6.1 Onshore–Offshore Transport
- • 9.6.2 Longshore Transport
- • 9.6.3 Estimates of Longshore Transport
- • 9.6.4 Sediment Sources and Sinks
- • 9.6.5 Shoreline Evolution Models
- • 9.6.6 Transport of Cohesive Sediments
- • 9.7 Bluff Erosion
- • 9.8 Scour
- • 9.8.1 Scour Depth Predictions
- • 9.8.2 Scour Protection
- • 9.9 Mitigation of Erosion and Accretion
- • 9.9.1 Beach Erosion
- • 9.9.2 Sediment Accretion
- • 9.9.3 Coastal Entrances
- • 9.10 Approaches to Shoreline Protection
- • 9.10.1 Coastal Resilience
- • 9.10.2 Traditional Methods
- • 9.10.3 Nature-Based and Hybrid Methods
- • 9.11 Coastal Restoration
- • 9.12 Coastal Management
- • Problems
Chapter 10: Mixing Processes
- • 10.1 Introduction
- • 10.2 Advection–Diffusion Equation
- • 10.2.1 One-Dimensional Equation
- • 10.2.2 Two- and Three-Dimensional Equations
- • 10.3 Solutions to the Advection–Diffusion Equation
- • 10.3.1 Diffusion Equation with Instantaneous Point Source
- • 10.3.2 Advection–Diffusion Equation with Instantaneous Point Source
- • 10.3.3 Effect of a Plane Boundary
- • 10.3.4 Spatially Distributed Source
- • 10.3.5 Time Varying Point Source
- • 10.3.6 Numerical Models
- • 10.4 Diffusion and Dispersion Coefficients
- • 10.5 Stratified Flows
- • 10.6 Mixing in Estuaries
- • 10.6.1 Categories of Estuaries
- • 10.6.2 Mixing Mechanisms
- • 10.7 Estuarine Flushing
- • 10.7.1 Flushing Parameters
- • 10.7.2 Selected Cases
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